19th September

It really doesn't feel like the end of sailing for the year. Obviously we've a lot to get back to but I could easily carry on while the weather is good and there are places to go. We left the public quay in Alghero, fuelled up and then crossed the bay to Fertilia. The total distance covered this season was 1534 nm. We've a few days to pack up before heading home. We look forward to seeing our family and friends and getting on with the other parts to our lives. We will be back though with new seas to explore.

18th September

The 20th is predicted to be windy and we needed to be in Fertilia before then so we opted to return south today. It was 42 miles downwind and under sail except for half an hour when the breeze died. A few miles out from the harbour we turned onto a reach, the wind got up and we were making over 9 knts before discretion took over and we took in some sail. We're once again on the public quay in Alghero. We can shop for non-perishables for next year.

17th September

In order to explore the island we hired a two seater electric car. We headed to the southern tip passing the old penal colony and random mules on the way. Coming from the other direction from Fornelli were cyclists, Land Rovers stuffed with tourists and a couple of 'trains'. We parked, plugged the vehicle into the power and went for a walk. We could see a boat labouring out through the passage we had used yesterday. We returned to Cala Reale and the only restaurant on the island for lunch. We then nipped into the turtle rescue centre where we paid to see three desultory creatures swimming around in small, barren, plastic tubs. They stay in them for anything from six months to three years. Is it worth getting rescued? It was then back in the buggy heading north to Cala D'Oliva. The bar was shut so we had a quick look and headed back to the boat.

16th September

We had a quiet night at anchor in Porte Conte, a bay five miles north of Alghero. From there heading further north the coastline is forbidding and undeveloped for thirty miles. We then had to cut through a narrow shallow channel between the mainland and the island of Asinara. This involved following two sets of leading marks to avoid the rocks on either side. Once safely through we were in a large sheltered bay opening out to the east. The pilot book was pretty unhelpful but it supplied a phone number for the national park. A quick conversation made it all clear and we ended up in a pontoon at Cala Reale on the east side of Asinara.

15th September

Stuart and Michael left this morning. We were sad to see them go. We motored across the bay to Fertlia to water up and make arrangements for the engines to be serviced. After lunch we made our way six miles north to the Porto Conte nature reserve and anchored for the night in Tramariglio Bay.

14th September

A small but significant triumph. We went to see the coastguard who said we could stay for free on the public quay. The man from the marina came by for a chat. 'Who told you you didn't have to pay? Was it the Frenchman?' They obviously try to keep quiet about it. We spent the morning exploring the old town. The afternoon was oppressive and humid. A perfect excuse for a siesta. And so to G&T time and a farewell supper for S&M at a restaurant overlooking the ocean.

13th September

Lucinda left her glasses at the restaurant last night so we went searching for them this morning. We then threaded our way through the narrow alleyways of the old town to reach the castle. The outer walls were more or less intact as was a chapel with frescoes. The views over the old town were spectacular with tiny coloured houses tumbling close-packed down the hill to the river. In the distance the white of sails signalled Sunday races taking place off the river mouth. We went for lunch at a Pizzeria which didn't sell pizzas at lunchtime. We set off back north in light winds which, as predicted, increased so we managed to sail most of the way. We planned to anchor for the night but decided it might be more comfortable in harbour. We should be able to stay for free on the public quay. Last time they got me to pay. Let's see what happens tonight.

12th September

I thought we could stay without charge on the town quay. Apparently not. After paying we pushed off south in light winds and flat seas. After about 15 miles we anchored for lunch off the deserted forbidding coast. The water was warm. It must have been as I went for a swim. We then lifted the anchor and motored further south to Bosa.

There was a small marina just inside the river entrance and we found a berth. In the evening we took the dinghy some 3km up river to the town of Bosa. In the dark we could see that the old town consisted of a warren of narrow cobbled streets beneath the castle. It was the festival of Mary the Virgin and there were shrines to her scattered throughout the town. There were street parties round every corner. We found a restaurant in a square and enjoyed the atmosphere.

11th September

We were at the small marina where we hope to leave Imagine for the winter. I went to the office and met Umberto, Giorgio, Bobo and Eugenio the dog. Everything was possible but no details were forthcoming. Welcome to Italy.

We motored across the bay to the historic city of Alghero and moored at the town quay underneath the old city walls. After lunch and a brief siesta we took a tourist boat to the local caves, the Grotta di Nettuno. They are in the next bay and the boat motors up to the entrance. The alternative is a vertiginous 654 step staircase steeply descending the cliff face. After the caves we had a beer in the old town, found a supermarket and ate onboard.

9th & 10th September

We set off early heading east. With the security of Menorca still clearly visible a dark storm cloud whipped up winds and seas far stronger than predicted. By afternoon things had settled down but the mainly northerly breezes were directing us towards the southern tip of Sardinia. As night fell we began our watches with me lying on the bed in the saloon. The sun dropped and disappeared suddenly leaving a tantalising brief afterglow. Looking up I could see the red, green and white of our steaming lights. The sails were dark shadows against the sky above. The stars were like spatters of white paint, some bright, others indistinct or smeared. It was easy to imagine they were set in a celestial sphere hanging above us. Dull white foam left a wake behind. No other vessel was seen during the night and we ploughed our solitary furrow in the unseen sea. The moon stayed hidden until 4:30 a.m. when it appeared as a thin crescent.

Dawn was directly ahead. It crept in, first signalling the event with a faint orange glow. As this brightened the sea around us became visible. Then the tip of the sun appeared rising majestically up and through the thin layer of cloud that stretched across the horizon ahead. We still had a fair way to go and laboured on sometimes sailing, sometime motorsailing, and finally motoring. We had passed into Italian waters and the Spanish courtesy flag came down to be replaced by the Italian one. We finally berthed just over 36 hours after leaving Menorca. A couple of bottles of Cava were opened to celebrate then it was showers and off to the town to eat. We should sleep well tonight.

8th September

We weren't sure what it is but the Jaleo started at 12:30 in the main square. We arrived early and found a spot while the crowds gathered. Eventually a carriage arrived escorted by the horsemen (and women) on foot without their steeds. Loud bells rang out from several locations. A bit later the riders, now mounted, reappeared. The band began to play. One rider after another came into the square wheeling and rearing their mount. Some people stood underneath the horses holding up their legs to help prolong the time they were rearing up. This was repeated many times, and then again as the parade came round the block a second time. At this stage we decided lunch was overdue and departed.

I came ashore in the early evening while the others decided to chill and then eat out. Eventually I found myself in a long avenue lined with straw bales protecting the lampposts. I'd found the race course. I had to wait a long time. Then a small group of riders came by and disappeared. About twenty minutes later they came back. Some time later four pairs of horses galloped past me down the street. Then it began to pour with rain. I was starting to think the others had made the right decision. I'd had enough of the horses and arrived soaking wet at the restaurant in time to enjoy a pizza with the others.

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7th September

Some of my fans (well only one actually) has complained about lack of yesterday's blog. Here it is.

We awoke in our wonderful peaceful anchorage. S & M visited the Mola, the magnificent fortifications overlooking the entrance to Mahon harbour while Lucinda and I stayed on Imagine. When they returned we moved to a 'floating island' opposite the main town. In the afternoon we went to see the festival. Try as I might I could find very little information on line about the biggest festival of the year in the Island's biggest town. The tourist office was shut, after all it was a holiday. So we wandered around town and eventually came across a cavalcade of horsemen dressed in black morning coats and white trousers. The horses looked pretty good too. There were also giants parading down different streets. There was meant to be a finale somewhere but we decided to go to eat instead. And so back to the boat.

6th September

We had a restless night with the dinghy banging against the hull. The morning was gloomy and windy. We went for a walk to the next bay and back. After lunch we pushed off East and South towards Mahon. Once round the nearest headland we managed to sail which was welcome after all the motoring we have done. The sea was still lumpy but as we turned downwind it felt a lot more comfortable. By late afternoon we were at anchor inside the magnificent natural harbour of Mahon.

5th September

The morning found us more or less in the same position as the night before. We took in the shore lines and anchor and went round the corner to fill up with diesel and water. It was a hard slog up the West coast into big seas and strong head winds. Inevitably the wind veered round against us as we turned East along the North shore of Menorca. Fornells was 20 miles away but we only managed to motor the last two. We picked up a buoy for the night, walked to the old British built tower and the even older Spanish fort. It was then time for a beer, a quick shower on board and a meal in the town.

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4th September

We had a restful night and the day started clear and bright. In the morning we went ashore to shop and to have some more tapas for lunch. Back on the boat Michael and Stuart helped put supports on the table. They were about to head in to town for a beer when a decision was made to re anchor. This provided considerable amusements to onlookers on the shore. Eventually we achieved success, more or less, and M & S headed into town. As darkness fell so the rain clouds rolled in bringing more thunder and lightning.

1st to 3rd September

It feels as though the summer is over in England and we're heading back to the boat. Michael Wilkey met us at Barcelona airport and Stuart Withington arrived later and made his way to Sant Carles. Imagine was looking good although a big storm had passed through earlier. We had tapas and retired in preparation for an early start in the morning.
We motored round the marina to the boat yard. After her bottom was scrubbed pristine we were back in the water and heading East. The forecast was far from perfect but it should do.

The first few hours were painful as we tacked laboriously into choppy seas. Land took an awfully link time to recede and every nautical mile nearer our destination was won with twice that distance sailed. Eventually the wind and waves eased off allowing us to motor in the right direction.

That night the moon was bright enough to see by. In the distance to our right, and behind us, the sky was lit by lightning, sometimes in prolonged bursts like some celestial fireworks display. Fortunately our route remained clear. That statement was optimistic. The storm from behind slowly got nearer until a dark front swept over wiping all light from outside. Lightning filled the sky transiently illuminating the circular world surrounding the boat. Every few minutes one of the lightning bolts racing up in the clouds would take a different route and hit the sea. Then came the rain, and then the wind. First at over 30 knots from behind, then less fiercely from one side followed by calm and then a wind from the other direction. In all it lasted about an hour. By this time dawn had broken and the indistinct grey of Majorca was visible off our starboard quarter. Just when all seemed to have settled down another storm hit followed by yet another, although neither was as fierce as the first to hit. Each brought initial strong winds then calm and rain.

Finally Ciudadela was in sight but a huge grey cloud was sitting on top of it. We turned into the cloud and cracks of thunder reverberated around us. We approached the anchorage in torrential rain, eventually putting the hook into the bottom with a line ashore. By this time we were all soaked. Two beers later we felt better and the sun came out.

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